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Author Topic: I needed a Submarine. So....  (Read 5916 times)
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gamer Mac
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« on: February 23, 2009, 01:01:59 PM »

I needed a sub for a objective in a pulp game.
After seeing some cool pictures on this forum I thought I would try my hand at building my own.
The basic shape was cut from 50 mm pink foam. Then cut and sanded to shape.



For the detail I wanted on the side of the sub I decided to clad it in plastic card. One problem I found with this was which glue to use. First I tried super glue but it just melted the foam. Plastic glue would not stick to the foam. The best stuff I had available was PVA. Not great but it is ok over large areas and it needs to be held in place with masking tape or rubber band while the glue sets.



I am not sure what other people use but any help would be welcome as I sent a lot of extra time mucking about with the PVA glue.



For the drain hole, detail on the plastic card I drilled two small holes in line with each other and then cutting out the material in between with a craft knife to create the slot then used a small round file to tidy them up.
For the rivets I drew lines on the back faces of the bits of plastic card where I wanted the rivets. Marked the line every 5 mm. Then I placed the plastic card face down on a bit of flat leather, a bit softer then a cutting mat. At each of the points marked off on the line I used the sharp end of a small round file to push into the card. You don’t push hard enough to got through the plastic card and you don’t use something very sharp like a pin as this will go right through the card. The soft surface underneath helps in embossing the rivets. Doing it this way is really easy. It takes longer to mark it all out than it does to emboss the rivets. I used this method for all the rivets on the sub.



For the conning tower I used a round cardboard tube, cut to length. I squashed the tube into an oblong shape I required. I then used this shape as a template on a piece of thick card. Drew around the oblong, then cut this shape out slightly smaller than the tube. I then glued this inside the tube to create a ridged shape. It was also the base for the floor in the conning tower.



I then got a very thin piece of plastic card, used the same methods as above to detail it, then folded it into place around the cardboard tube, gluing it in place with super glue. I used some cloths pegs to hold it in place while the glue set.



The rest of the detail was just made out of various bits of plastic, card, rod and GW shields. I used some copper wire to build the railing around the conning tower gun position. But this is very fragile. I am still thinking of a better way to strengthen it. It started off really neat but after breaking it a couple of times during painting it now need’s some more work to straighten it again.
For the deck I had some plastic “check plate” that I cut to suit and glued in place. I used PVA over the large areas but to help strengthen it I used supper glue along the edges where it met other plastic card.
To create the water I used a watery solution of polyfiller spread around the base. The base was just thick card cut to shape. I also used polyfiller to fill some of the gaps in the body of the sub.



The sub was painted using black GW undercoat and then B&Q testers.
In all it took we just over a week of a couple of hours per night.
If I can do it so can anybody.





Crew

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Luthaaren Von Tegale
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« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2009, 02:10:26 PM »

Now that is very good.
Nice one Mac.

I may have missed it, but is the AA gun placed on magnets to hold it in place in the two locations you've shown? Are you planning on adding a larger deck gun?

I wish I'd thought of your method for doing rivets they look good - my current one involves drilling a hole, gluing in a length of plastic rod and cutting to length, looks good but takes ages!

As an aside - this is what I love about the LAF - rather than bitching about there not being a model for such and such you guys get off your butts and make it - long may it continue.



                         vT
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Mancha
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« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2009, 04:59:20 PM »

For the rivets I drew lines on the back faces of the bits of plastic card where I wanted the rivets. Marked the line every 5 mm. Then I placed the plastic card face down on a bit of flat leather, a bit softer then a cutting mat. At each of the points marked off on the line I used the sharp end of a small round file to push into the card. You don’t push hard enough to got through the plastic card and you don’t use something very sharp like a pin as this will go right through the card. The soft surface underneath helps in embossing the rivets. Doing it this way is really easy. It takes longer to mark it all out than it does to emboss the rivets. I used this method for all the rivets on the sub.

What a great idea.  Although that removes the ability to sand the plastic card afterwards, huh?
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sukhe_bator
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2009, 06:16:51 PM »

An excellent build. I've used a similar method to create rivets both in 15mm (on my Sengoku-Jidai castle gatehouse)
and on the main gates of my 28mm 'Sahyun' fortress

In both cases I used foil from a wine bottle. It gave me the extra excuse to empty the accompanying bottle first. A warning though about my method - don't do the bottle emptying thing too much or the rivets end up all wonky!
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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2009, 07:13:36 PM »

Great work, lots of detail. I really appreciate you laying out your steps and the pictures. Your sub is awesome. Thanks again for all the write-up and pictures.
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« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2009, 07:28:29 PM »

That is an impressive piece! I really love the time you spent explaining your steps as well as the problems you cam across.


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« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2009, 07:57:15 PM »

Very, very nice. The Workbench Moderator's Gold Star of Awesome Talent to you. Because of your pedagogical step-by-step narrative I will put this one in 'How to...'
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Alfrik
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« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2009, 12:59:43 AM »

For your bridge railing I would consider using Cold Solder.
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« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2009, 11:46:13 AM »

This is a very nice U-Boat (it's german, isn't it?  Wink )
Concerning your glueing problems, I remember reading something in the Evil Empire's Modeling Workshop Compendium. They were undercoating the foam stuff to seal the surface, afterwards the superglue is unable to melt it away. I just can't find what they used as undercoat. I think it was watered down PVA glue or putty. Maybe you can give it a try on your next project
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sukhe_bator
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« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2009, 12:37:51 PM »

I use the green styrofoam a lot (a variant of the pink that the Evil Empire have in all their modelling articles) and can testify to the virtues of 50:50 PVA/water as a good seal
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gamer Mac
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« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2009, 01:58:32 PM »

Cheers guys
I will try that in the future.
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Vonkluge
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« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2009, 09:50:16 PM »

Me again!, Laugh

We are going to cross paths often it seems, possibly swords! I too recomend the blue or greenboard as it will not "melt" like the cheap open cell foam. Coating with PVA glue will seal the regular foam allowing you to the use more "corrosive" products on it. I do this with terrain but do not do it with any other builds as it has a habit of shrinking and pulling or warping your model. Things can be done to help minimize this, but over time years PVA will continue to shrink and deteriorate as it is an organic base glue. This is more true in enviroments were ther is high temp/humidity shifts.

I have used a WATER based contact cement with sucess, might try it. Takes some timeing but works well for me. I love the sub and hate you for putting another project on my plate! was it 20mm or 28mm?
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« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2009, 10:20:39 PM »

excellent thread here

great submarine like everything about it

dodge
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« Reply #13 on: April 24, 2009, 08:19:04 AM »

wow great submarine! that's a nice idea for rivets! congratulations!
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argsilverson
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« Reply #14 on: April 24, 2009, 12:27:14 PM »

Very nice.
I note the rivets method. Very useful. Thanks.
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argsilverson
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